South Florida Restaurants in 2023
Well, 2023 is history — and boy, what a wild ride it was. We all felt the painful crunch of inflation (especially regarding food), while unprecedented national debt brought our nation to the brink of shutdown (twice). Natural disasters and climate change continued to wreak havoc, from The Hottest Day in recorded history to devastating fires in Maui and unprecedented flooding in Ft. Lauderdale. A Chinese spy balloon was allowed to drift across the country, collecting data casually. A toxic train derailment in Ohio, major bank failures, crippling union strikes, the passing of the Gavel (twice), a lost submersible, the alarming rise of AI, and more political, business, and cultural drama than we can remember — plus, of course, Taylor Swift seemed to make the news every day.
But at least we could take solace from the world’s woes here in our little corner of paradise by engaging in our favorite activity — eating! 2023 was particularly tough for restaurants. In addition to soaring prices on everything from food and fuel to labor and rent, restaurateurs had to battle a plethora of other economic factors: Lower consumer disposable income caused by inflation, loss of customers due to remote work, labor shortages, supply chain issues, rising crime, and reduced alcohol sales and other lost revenues due to reliance on third-party delivery. Yet despite all the challenges, many new restaurants still opened in Boca and Delray. But unlike other years, we saw a marked decline in the usual preponderance of independent mom ‘n pop proprietors — due, I surmise, to the above-referenced economic barriers. Instead, we saw a notable influx of deep-pocket out-of-towners who expanded their corporate realm into our market. To wit: Eddie V’s, The Hampton Social, Maggy McFly’s, Fiolina, Le Colonial, Gallaghers, DalMoros, Del Fuego, Skillets, and Vale Food Company all opened in Boca/Delray, as did other South Florida restaurants like American Social, El Camino, Ke-uH, Meat Market, Pura Vida, and Serious Dumplings.
I also note a powerful infusion of Asian and Latino establishments. Boca Raton celebrated the long-awaited “Restaurant Row” launch on NW 19th Street near Boca Town Center. With all-star headliners like Meat Market, Fiolina, El Camino, and more coming soon, Restaurant Row presents a vibrant new option (and competition) to the nearby Shops of Boca Center, Glades Plaza, and Town Center Mall, as well as Mizner Park and Atlantic Ave.
And so, my fellow foodies, here again, is your annual guide to our culinary happenings in something we like to call “The Restaurant Year in Review.”
AMERICAN
2023 was a good year for local carnivores, with several big gun steakhouses expanding into Boca (as if we didn’t have enough already!). Most notably, Eddie V’s opened its luxurious prime steakhouse & seafood emporium in Mizner Park, filling the long-vacant space of Ouzo Bay and its various predecessors. With its creative take on classic American mainstays, first-class service, notable wine program, and understated elegance, Eddie V’s has pumped much-needed new life into Mizner Park. Shortly after that, Chef Sean Brasel’s high-profile Palm Beach steakhouse Meat Market became the first new tenant in Restaurant Row, while NYC-based Gallaghers opened nearby on Glades Road.
On a more casual (and affordable) note, American Social opened in Mizner Park, finally filling the former Truluck’s spot. The original “AmSo” is still a central hub of the Las Olas action, and its approachable contemporary American menu and lively social scene have already brought new life to Mizner Park and to downtown Boca as a whole. November then saw Maggie McFly’s open in the Boca Town Center, bringing its Connecticut-based “Local Craft Eatery & Bar” concept and expansive menu featuring local providers to the elaborate environs of the former Rex Baron. Smash House Burgers secretly opened in Boca Grove — but the best new burgers in town are the Wagyu smash burgers at PZZA, the new pizza haven in Mizner Plaza.
Meanwhile, Delray Beach welcomed Chicago-based The Hampton Social to the new Atlantic Crossing. Reflecting the refined-casual charm of a summer beach house in the Hamptons, the seafood-forward eatery is artfully accentuated with seaside décor, right down to the nautical ropes and 1950’s-era books in the ‘hallway’ bookcase. Sporting its elevated cuisine, relaxed setting, and lively central bar featuring creative cocktails and signature “Rosé All Day” program, The Hampton Social is a new must-try hot spot just off the Ave. On a more rural note, Skillets (another out-of-towner) brought its down-home daytime café and charming hospitality to Delray Marketplace.
ITALIAN/MEDITERRANEAN
Fans of Italian cuisine (and who isn’t?) were thrilled to see Fiolina Pasta House open in Boca’s new Restaurant Row. As the name implies, Fiolina features authentic house-made fresh pasta dishes and other Italian specialties under the masterful guidance of acclaimed celebrity Chef Fabio Trabocchi. Don’t expect your typical NY “Italian American” red sauce joint here (i.e., no Spaghetti & Meatballs) — this is the real deal, authentic Italian cuisine. The food speaks of fine dining, but the setting is relaxed and comfortable, with old-world charm and a welcoming, non-pretentious attitude — making Fiolina Pasta House my top choice for “Boca’s Best New Restaurant.” And speaking of “the best,” pizzaholics are raving about the new PZZA in Mizner Plaza. Using exclusive ingredients (like 50-hour cold-proofed, hand-tossed dough, fresh burrata stracciatella, and fresh-shaved 24-month aged Parmigiano Reggiano), precise cooking techniques, and ingenious extra touches, this friendly little shop cranks out some genuinely remarkable pizza — and its Wagyu smash burgers (although not Italian) are the best damn burgers in town! Boca also welcomed Rino’s of Boca in Royal Palm Place (replacing Merlino’s) and 388 Italian on N. Federal in the old Ash Cigar Bar space. We also got a new taste of Tucci’s Pizza, which relocated from its original downtown location to a newer, bigger home on E. Yamato Road. In Delray, Campi launched its high-end Italian ristorante in The Ray Hotel (taking over the short-lived Ember Grill), along with DalMoros Fresh Pasta To Go on the Ave. Also on the Mediterranean cruise, Delray Beach welcomed the short-lived Opal & Ore, while Uzzo Mediterranean opened in Boca’s Picadilly Square on Glades Road. With its authentic Turkish & Greek cuisine and (most importantly) the owner’s charming hospitality, Uzzo should last longer than its fellow short-term Turkish/Greek predecessors, Leziz Mediterranean, and Mythos Taverna.
ASIAN
However, the most prolific addition to our 2023 restaurant scene was Asian — with more new Sushi and pan-Asian openings than ever. Ke-uH opened its fantastic new bistro in the Shops at Boca Center, taking the space of the iconic Sushi Ray. Ke-uH does make outstanding sushi — but what makes it stand apart from the crowd of generic boilerplate sushi joints is its creative fusion cuisine, presenting Asian-inspired renditions of non-typical ‘sushi’ offerings, from ceviche and grilled octopus, to pizza, tacos, Wagyu sliders, and grilled Ribeye. A few months earlier, Sushi By Bou, the highly-touted omakase concept, opened its newest location in Royal Palm Place, assuming the space of fellow Japanese AlleyCat. Another omakase master, Taki Omakase, brought its exquisite omakase specialty to N. Federal Highway, filling the void of Tucker Duke’s Lunchbox. Other new sushi options include the reincarnated Kanpai, which (finally) re-opened after a devastating fire two years ago, along with Kingdom Sushi in Palms Plaza and Yakitori Sushi House in West Delray. Also on the Asian menu: AlleyCat relocated its izakaya (“Japanese tapas”) operation from Royal Palm Place to E. Palmetto Park Road (replacing Rebel House), and Chicago-based Le Colonial in Delray’s Atlantic Crossing (next to Hampton Social), offering its interpretive French-Vietnamese cuisine and nostalgic 1920’s Saigon setting. You can also satisfy your yen for Chinese fare at the new Red Pine on Town Center Road near Restaurant Row (try the Shrimp Toast, Peking Duck, and sensational Crispy Brussels Sprouts), and Serious Dumplings, another Miami concept who ventured north, in Shadowood Square.
MEXICAN & LATIN
Mexican fans shouted a big “Ole!” when El Camino opened its impressive restaurant and lively cantina on the new Restaurant Row (adjacent to Fiolina), further expanding its Delray-based realm. Also in Delray, Del Fuego brought its (NY-based) Tex-Mex concept to the sizeable waterfront locale previously held by Meso Beach House (along with Che!, Hudson East, Old Calypso, etc.) — but soon met the same fate. Papamigos also entered Delray, introducing its unique “Mexican-Sushi” menu to the hidden strip center on S. Federal, replacing fellow Mexican Las Catrinas (and Sardinia previously). Taco Labs opened in Fifth Avenue Shoppes, assuming the former Ahtziri Grill space. Taco Labs comes from good stock, under the same loving care as its neighbor Arun’s Indian Kitchen — and delivers the same quality, value, and hospitality as its Indian big brother. The humble taqueria cranks out some incredibly inventive (and addictive!) cuisine, with chef-driven, completely scratch-made globally-inspired tacos (and more), from Mexican and Indian to Korean and Caribbean. Another amigo, Milagros, opened on E. Palmetto Park Road in downtown Boca.
HEALTHY, CASUAL, DESSERTS, & MORE
Health-conscious eaters can now get their fill of grain bowls and smoothies at the new Vale Food Company in the Shops at Boca Center, along with Miami-based Pura Vida in Lakeside Center, Pressed Juicery in Boca Town Center, and 3 Natives in Royal Palm Place. On the opposite end of the spectrum, satisfy your sweet tooth at Vicky Bakery on Kimberly Blvd., Midnight Cookies & Cream in Winfield Plaza on NE 20th Street, and Damn Good Sweets on W. Atlantic Ave. Other new additions to the culinary scene include Mooyah Burgers, Fries & Shakes in the Polo Club Shoppes, Cluck Face Nashville Hot Chicken on N. Federal, and Subculture Coffee Roasters in Mizner Park; along with the Spanish-inspired ‘food hall” and gourmet market Narbona in the old Joseph’s Market space at the Shops at Boca Center, and (much to the dismay of Fresh Market and Whole Foods) a shiny new Sprouts Farmer’s Market in Shadowood Square.
“Sorry, We’re Closed ”
2023 dealt us a new deck of dining cards to play — but as always, it also saw many players fold their hands. We lost a true local treasure when Rebel House closed after holding down its ‘rebellious’ fort for many years. Rebel House was one of Boca’s first “chef-driven contemporary American gastropub” concepts and led the way for many. It was even featured on Guy Fieri’s Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives — which, ironically, aired right after the restaurant closed. I mourn the loss of another non-conformist gastropub, Tucker Duke’s Lunchbox (the quintessential burger & craft beer joint), which shut its lunchbox for good. Downtown Boca lost newcomer American Tapas in Palmetto Place. In Delray, The Ray Hotel’s signature steakhouse Ember Grill met its untimely demise despite all the media hype. Delray Beach also lost The Falcon (which had replaced Death or Glory) and Harvest Seasonal Grill, featuring seasonal menus and locally sourced ingredients within its beautiful setting. But the saddest closing was the beloved Howard’s Market on SW 18th Street in Boca Del Mar. Howard’s was an absolute icon and local favorite for nearly 40 years — and one of the only remaining independent neighborhood grocery stores where the owners still knew their customers by name. Its loss marks the actual end of an era.
Italian fans can no longer enjoy the wonderful pasta creations of Angelo’s to Go in Mizner Plaza, nor Frank and Dino’s seafood specialties, Meatball Room’s signature meatballs, Augy’s pizza; gelato from Gianno, or anything from Siena Grill, which quickly failed. Delray’s favorite Greek, Taverna Opa, unfortunately, grilled its last lamb chops and shouted its final “Opa!” from its long-held home on Atlantic Avenue, which also lost newcomer Opal & Ore, while Boca newbie Leziz Mediterranean likewise closed shop. Another sad loss came when Warike Peruvian Bistro, another chef-owned local treasure, said its final adios. Nearby neighbor Los Bocados closed its new Boca outpost — but fortunately, you can still savor some killer Mexican street food at its Parkland location (also featured on Diners, Drive-Ins & Dives). Other losses include newbies D’ Cuban Bistro on E. Palmetto Park and Las Catrinas in Delray. We also bid Sayonara to the venerable Sushi Ray, the longest-lasting restaurant in the Shops of Boca Center, which closed after its 20+ year reign. Other Asian victims of the 2023 economy include Local Seoul on S. Federal, its successor Big in Japan, Pagoda Kitchen in Delray Marketplace, and the new Zhen Wei Fang Chinese in The Reserve.
It’s a shame to lose to our long-time favorites, but it’s also sad to see hopeful newcomers die during their infancy. Siena Grill, for instance, closed just a few months after it opened, as did Local Seoul in downtown Boca. The Ray Hotel’s Ember Grill lasted less than a year on the high-end scale despite its tremendous investment and pre-opening media frenzy. Other adventurous rookies who never even got to celebrate their first birthdays include Meatball Room, Leziz Mediterranean, American Tapas, Los Bocados, Big in Japan, and Zhen Wei Fang in Boca, along with The Falcon, Opal & Ore, and Las Catrinas in Delray — to name a few (whew!).
Yes, 2023 was a challenging year, but it brought new life and vigor to our local dining scene. And this year is already off to a good start, with many exciting new ventures underway. And so, my fellow foodies, here’s wishing you all a sweet & savory 2024, full of health and happiness — and, of course, Good Eatin’!
Kenny Spahn is a renowned culinary author, food critic, restaurant consultant, and veteran contributor to Simply The Best since 2004. He serves as President of Restaurant Placement Group, the exclusive recruiting and consulting firm for the Restaurant and Hospitality industry. www.RestaurantPlacement.com.